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COSMETICI: QUANTO LI CONOSCIAMO?

In the collective "cosmetic" means the product make-up and, often, especially for men, something that affects mostly women. Nothing could be more misleading!
Definizioni e legislazione
Ogni giorno ciascuno di noi, uomo o donna, utilizza almeno 7 diversi prodotti. Proviamo a contarli: la mattina ci alziamo e ci laviamo le mani e/o il viso con un sapone/detergente (1), usiamo un dentifricio (1), magari facciamo una doccia (1-2) oppure semplicemente usiamo un detergente intimo (1), mettiamo un deodorante (1), magari una crema (1), c'è chi fa la barba (2) e chi si trucca (2-4..) e infine un profumo prima di uscire (1). Abbiamo utilizzato già almeno 7 prodotti e siamo solo all'inizio della giornata; senza contare poi gel, lacca o fissativo per capelli, salviettine profumate o sapone liquido durante il giorno, sunscreen products if we are at sea or in the mountains, and any other business.
Cosmetics, therefore, there are many different products, ranging from "cleaning of the person" to those perfumes, decorative cosmetics, professional products for hairdressers, beauticians and beauty salons, spa products, those for the protection solar, etc..
It is clear, therefore, as the cosmetics industry is one of the biggest markets for consumer goods: it is, in fact, the second the chemicals market, after the basic chemistry, and Italy is the fourth largest European market in size, immediately after Germany, France and England, with a consumption of around 9.1 billion euros in 2009 and an increase of 50% in last 10 years (Source UNIPRO).
Despite the effects of the game in autumn 2008, in Italy the growing consumption of cosmetics in all channels except for the hairdressing and beauty salons, respectively, a decrease of 4.5% and 5.1%. The total value amounted to 9.107 billion euro for a growth rate of 0.3%. A big turnover and a tendency to consume much in growth.
All this requires constant attention to the quality of the finished product and the safety of those using them, so the European Union, in the last 10 years, has issued guidelines to regulate the sector, given the pressing demands of the consumer's more products Safe, harmless, environmentally friendly, not tested on animals and little impact on the environment.
part of those working in the area and draw a cosmetic need wide-ranging scientific expertise, ranging from biochemistry to physics, anatomy and physiology of the skin, pharmacology and toxicology, formulation and technical knowledge of current legislation on cosmetics, to ensure a product of higher quality for consumers who are increasingly more demanding.
In Italy, the legislation governing the industry refers to Law 713/86, as amended by Legislative Decree No 126/97, in addition to the technical rules on the suitability of local workshop cosmetics, contenute nel Decreto Ministeriale n. 328/87. È utile avere presente a grandi linee cosa dice la normativa sul cosmetico, in modo da sapere cosa ci si può o ci si deve aspettare e cosa, invece, non si può pretendere da un prodotto cosmetico.
I cosmetici sono "… le sostanze e le preparazioni, diverse dai medicinali, destinate ad essere applicate sulle superfici esterne del corpo umano (epidermide, sistema pilifero e capelli, unghie, labbra, denti, organi genitali esterni), oppure sui denti e sulle mucose della bocca allo scopo, esclusivo o prevalente, di pulirli, profumarli, modificarne l'aspetto, correggere gli odori corporei, proteggerli o mantenerli in buono stato." (art. 1 -L. 713/86- testo integrato). Inoltre "... Cosmetic products have therapeutic functions and can not claim therapeutic activities" (Article 2-L. \u200b\u200b713/86- integrated text).
The Cosmetology is the science that deals with all study materials and how to mix them together to get a cosmetic preparation to be applied on skin, teeth and mouth in order to clean them and keep them in good was . Cosmetology is a discipline
The "young", because in Italy there is only since 1970 when for the first time, joined as a subject in a degree program. The Faculty of Pharmacy of Turin was the first in Italy to include in its order a course chemistry of cosmetic products.
The teacher was Dr. Gianni Proserpio degree in Industrial Chemistry, Pharmacy and Biological Sciences, one of the most popular Italian and European cosmetologists.
The legislation is the guiding law of cosmetology is represented by the following laws and Legislative Decree n ° 713 of 11/10/1986 ; Leg. No. 300, 10/09/1991; D . Legislative Decree No. 126 of 24/04/1997 , D. Decree No. 50 of February 15, 2005 which was published in the Official Gazette 87 of 15 April 2005 and transposing the Directives 2003/15/EC and 2003/80/EC in the field of cosmetic products.

The D. Lgs n° 50 del 15 febbraio 2005 ha introdotto delle importanti novità per quanto riguarda le informazioni che si trovano sull’imballaggio dei prodotti cosmetici , o su un foglietto illustrativo allegato, quando il prodotto è di piccole dimensioni:
indirizzo del fabbricante , o del responsabile dell'immissione sul mercato all'interno della Comunità europea, in modo tale che si possa identificare l' impresa per chiedere maggiori informazioni o segnalare eventuali problemi;
contenuto del prodotto al momento del confezionamento per i prodotti con peso o volume netto superiore o uguale rispettivamente a 5 grammi o 5 millilitri.(fanno eccezione, oltre ai prodotti sotto queste misure , anche le confezioni monouso e i campioni);
data di durata della conservazione : obbligatoria, per ora, solo per i prodotti con durata inferiore ai 30 mesi. Indica la data fino alla quale il prodotto, conservato naturalmente nel modo più opportuno, rimane sicuro. Questa data viene indicata con la dicitura "Usare preferibilmente entro ...", seguita dalla data o dall' indicazione del punto dell' etichetta in cui essa figura;
precauzioni particolari per l' uso , se necessarie;
lotto di fabbricazione che permette l' identificazione esatta della date e del luogo di produzione del cosmetico.
funzione del prodotto , salvo che ciò sia ovvio;
list of ingredients in descending order by weight.

cosmetics for over 30 months must be given the post-opening or PAO symbol showing the jar open with a minimum period of time, in which the product can be used to safely once opened. This will solve the question of the possibility to use from one year to 'another, sunscreen products.
The PAO, is the period of time to 'inside of which the cosmetic can be used safely as continue to maintain their characteristics after being opened, stored and handled properly. The PAO is a period of time indicativo stabilito sulla base delle conoscenze acquisite dai produttori sui loro stessi prodotti. Il PAO è indicato in mesi (numero preceduto dalla lettera M), dentro o fuori il simbolo rappresentato da un barattolo aperto. Un cosmetico viene considerato aperto quando viene utilizzato per la prima volta. Il PAO va quindi calcolato a partire da questo primo uso. Il PAO non è applicabile ai prodotti monodose, perché non c' è «periodo d' uso» in senso stretto dopo averli aperti, e neppure ai prodotti che non possono essere aperti e per i quali non c' è di conseguenza il rischio di contatto - e contaminazioni - con l' ambiente (si pensi agli spray, formulazione spesso usata, per esempio, per prodotti come deodoranti, oppure lacche), and products that present no risk of deterioration after opening. These are usually prepared, "unfriendly" to the growth of microorganisms because of high alcohol content, with very high or low pH, or because they contain little water.
What are the rules of good conservation? When you open a cosmetic, external elements, like oxygen and microorganisms, it can affect their quality. So here are some useful tips, developed by experts of 'Unipro, to properly maintain all cosmetic products. Open the package just before the 'use. Avoid leaving products open and unused for long periods. After using a cosmetic, always close it carefully. If the showing obvious signs of cosmetic alteration of smell and it is possible that its quality is no longer optimal for which it is best to discontinue the operation.
better not to dilute or mix with other cosmetic products, unless in case of operations provided by the user 's manual. In the case of mascara and eyeliner to avoid pumping air into the container by moving the brush up and down: it runs the risk of impairing the quality of the product. Keep clean all items that come in direct contact with the cosmetic, such as sponges, spatulas or brushes, which should be washed with soap or mild detergent and allow to dry completely before the 'later use.

Deve essere, altresì indicata in etichetta la presenza di 26 sostanze, contenute in materie prime quali aromi e profumi, identificate come potenzialmente allergizzanti.
Queste 26 sostanze, sintetiche o naturali, sono presenti soprattutto nelle fragranze (es. oli essenziali) che vengono impiegate nei profumi utilizzati in molti prodotti cosmetici. Sebbene la compatibilità cutanea dei prodotti cosmetici sia completamente testata, è inevitabile che un numero esiguo di individui possa manifestare una reazione cutanea (irritazione o rossore) a sostanze cui è allergico. In questo contesto, il progresso scientifico ora permette, grazie allo sviluppo della ricerca e al miglioramento dei metodi di analisi, to identify those substances that may be responsible for allergies. In addition to allowing more information to consumers, the new labeling will also allow dermatologists to be more effective in identifying allergies, since they will include these 26 substances in allergy testing.
The obligation under the European directive may be considered a public health measure, which is not intended to ban these substances, but to inform consumers about their presence in cosmetic products. In fact, these substances have a key role in helping to give the products containing a particular aroma. This measure is very important because on the one hand help physicians, facilitating the diagnosis of contact allergies, and the other side will allow consumers who are allergic to certain fragrances to identify the presence in foods and avoid its use. This obligation relates
labeling cosmetic products that contain more than: 10 ppm
[ppm indicates parts per million (or 1mg/1Kg 1ml/1L)] of each of the 26 fragrances for products without rinsing
100 ppm of each of the 26 fragrance substances, for rinse-off products.
The fragrances are interested in the natural state, but can also be obtained by synthesis, in particular 16 of the 26 identified substances may be present in natural state (for example, rose essence in its composition contains 6 of these allergens: geraniol, citronellol, citral, eugenol, farnesol, linalool).
Among the 26 fragrance substances identified, many are those considered as highly sensitizing.
This measure of health protection is part of a comprehensive strategy of prevention and the preventive measures already adopted that sought to restrict the use of a number of these substances to minimize its adverse effects.
For updates on legislation of cosmetic products, please visit the website of the Ministry of Health at the following link:
http://www.ministerosalute.it/cosmetici/archivioNormativaCosmetici.jsp?lingua=italiano&menu = law

The law therefore provides an indicative list of products that might be considered cosmetic. Ultimately all the functions and activities carried out from cosmetics should not exceed the limit of the dermo-epidermal junction, the thin line and the junction between the deep layer (dermis) and superficial (epidermis) of our skin.
In reality the body does not work in watertight compartments: the epidermis is structurally isolated from the dermis except for descriptive and educational facilities and demand that something be applied to the skin surface remains there and does not go further in depth is probably just a matter of convenience for those who must carve up market share and identify areas of professional competence, setting out who can do such a thing and who can not sell at other times.
So much so that a new word that will probably come soon in common usage and in the future design of these products is to "cosmeceutical," a cosmetic and pharmaceutical industry will have more functionality. Currently this feature is reserved for the few formulations for topical use (ie, external, local), which are reserved by medical care, such as those containing estrogen or retinoic acid, whose use is banned in cosmetic products. The fact is, however
that, by law, a cosmetic can not boast, nor can claim to have therapeutic effects, healing, and then actions at the systemic level, global organism umano.È interesting in this regard, make a brief reference to the issue of cellulite, which as you know is a real disease, as well as an aesthetic problem, so much so that the medical definition is Pannicolopatia edematous-fibrosclerotic (PEF) or liposclerosis (coined in 1983), because education is typically a lump of cells degenerated fat, surrounded by sclerotic tissue and not sprayed. However, since the liposclerosis progresses in stages of increasing severity, the cosmetic may intervene in the early stages, trying di bloccare la progressione della degenerazione tissutale e come coadiuvante nel trattamento della patologia.
Alcuni principi attivi utilizzati nei cosmetici peraltro superano la barriere dermo-epidermica e hanno un'influenza sull'organismo.

Sembra che i principi attivi contenuti in queste piante intervengano sul riassorbimento degli edemi, ristabilendo la permeabilità vasale e impedendo la fuoriuscita di essudato dai capillari dermici: un intervento, come si comprende, che va ben aldilà della suddetta giunzione dermo-epidermica.
La questione, quindi, resta aperta: è ammissibile un utilizzo cosmetico (anche a base di piante) i cui principi funzionali agiscono a tali profondità?
E' ammissibile purché venga dato al prodotto un taglio squisitamente cosmetico e non terapeutico: nessuna pretesa, insomma, di risolvere il problema, ma forse un piccolo contributo ed un modo per prendersi cura di sé e del proprio corpo.