try to better understand how it's done a cosmetic and what may be the substances that constitute it.
The ingredients of a cosmetic product are usually multiple and are included in the list below, divided into classes. In technical jargon, cosmetic ingredients are called "raw materials":
A key ingredient that has not been listed, but is also a raw material, is WATER : almost all cosmetics are composed mainly of water, up to 90% of the composition, and it is important that it possesses specific requirements of chemical, physical and microbiological purity.
• SURFACTANTS : are essential ingredients to produce TENSIOL, whose members include shampoo, shower gel, shower gel and other cosmetic detergents.
• EMULSIFIERS and Solubilizing : we find in the emulsions, that is produced formed by mixing an aqueous phase and an oily, such as creams, milks, balms.
• LIPIDS : are essential ingredients for emulsions and also included in the composition of lipstick, lip stick and other products based on fat.
• Rheology additive and Film forming : cosmetic intended to provide the desired consistency and smoothness, and are fundamental constituents of the gel.
In all products, then, are almost always present ingredients ranging from Class 6 to 10 : we buy a TENSIOL ie, an emulsion, a hydrolat (= water-based, such as tonics, after shave) or gel almost always find ingredients antioxidants, preservatives, dyes (not always), assistants and especially FUNCTIONAL MATERIALS.
Note that the substances belonging to these classes are also those that most often give problems AWARENESS or Allergenic , apart from the individual hypersensitivity to certain substances that can obviously cover the components of any class .
Raw materials may be of various origin: mineral, animal, vegetable or synthetic, and currently la maggior parte degli ingredienti cosmetici è di origine sintetica, cioè ottenuta in laboratorio, qualcuna è ricavata dal mondo vegetale o animale e qualcosa infine è di origine minerale.
A riguardo, esistono due diverse concezioni formulative:
• la scuola AMERICANA che predilige la stabilità, la gradevolezza e l'economicità del prodotto, facendo quindi uso di ingredienti perlopiù di sintesi o minerali;
• a scuola EUROPEA, di impostazione più "naturalistica".
Negli ultimi 6-7 anni, però, stiamo assistendo a progressive vegetalization of the cosmetic in the sense that more and more raw material suppliers offering substances taken directly from the plant world or derived from it with minor modifications of the laboratory, or obtained by biotechnological type.
This market trend is due to several reasons:
1. the recent discovery and exploitation of herbal medicine with the use of plants to self-care in the broadest sense, and also for the care of your body;
2. the acquisition of mineral products (actually petroleum and petroleum jelly vaseline: the so-called "oil") are not so harmless and safe;
3. the ban on animal products following the scandal of the "mad cow" disease and fear of transmission of bovine spongiform encephalopathy (BSE);
4. the expansion of markets intercontinental dimensions, requiring researchers to make products that are well accepted in countries where certain raw materials are not considered safe and where they are perhaps other security requirements (see Japan and Sweden, which do not allow ' importation of certain cosmetics containing preservatives, rather common in European and U.S. markets).
All these factors have played in favor of a constant demand for products of plant origin and have influenced, of course, the industrial production.
Even if they are continuing to rise, therefore, the raw materials derived from the plant world for different classes of ingredients listed, we are quite far from being able to find a product on the market full of plants.
often talk about "natural cosmetics " or "natural based cosmetics ", meaning that a cosmetic product that contains one or more extracts, derived from plants: usually extracts vegetali costituiscono i cosiddetti PRINCIPI ATTIVI o SOSTANZE FUNZIONALI (classe 10), materie prime da sempre utilizzate per la caratterizzazione del prodotto, per dargli cioè una connotazione naturale, vegetale e così via.
Ovviamente introdurre nel cosmetico uno o più derivati da piante, pur dandogli una connotazione naturale, non significa ottenere un cosmetico vegetale , in cui tutti gli ingredienti utilizzati sono di origine vegetale.
Infatti la maggior parte delle materie prime è ancora prevalentemente di sintesi , dove c'è una disponibilità e una possibilità di scelta enorme per tutte le classi; seguono, in termini di disponibilità, varietà e costi, i prodotti di origine vegetale modificati con piccoli procedimenti chimici; solo il 30% delle materie prime è disponibile in forma completamente vegetale .
Al consumatore non resta che privilegiare i prodotti che vantano una elevata percentuale di componenti di origine naturale, cominciando a prestare una maggiore attenzione a quanto riportato in etichetta.
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